best adhesive choice for imported(UK) wallpaper?

[rex]

Got some Jane Churchill(Colefax and Fowler)wallpaper to hang in a bathroom remodel. The instructions recommend using a PVA based adhesive, and NOT to use ready mixed heavy duty vinyl paste. Anyone have any experience with this companies wallcoverings?

[BrushJockey]

Never heard of the stuff, but those brits can be picky . Did a quick google for you and found this, with the same question.
http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=62803
 The hangers responding seem to be brit- and they have different products .
 I have hung the pulps with the powdered cellulose or thinned down clears. 
 Maybe Prowall will check in for more info-

[ProWallGuy]

First you need to find out if it will be a non-woven, are an actual pulp. For the non-woven, I use 234 on the wall and dry hang. For pulp, I've used a 80% wheat - 20% 111 mix. I also like Roos P-7. It really depends on the paper.

Plus, I would bet that you would need a liner paper for that product too.

[rex]

yup, need  a paper liner too.  Was thinking of using thinned down clear(Roman 880), but the instructions warn against using pre mixed heavy duty vinyl clear adhesives.  Did some Google research last nite and found a universal adhesive from Roman(543) that is a polymer base which I am assuming is similar to PVA. Gonna check it out today at  Sherwin Williams.  The company does recommend wheat paste, but Im a little leary of using wheat paste in a bathroom. Not sure if I would get best adhesive qualities from wheat paste compared to a heavier synthetic paste. And the wheat paste might not have the mildew resistance needed for a bathroom.

[ProWallGuy]

I wouldn't use a polymer based adhesive on a pulp! Polymer is like vinyl-over-vinyl, or Elmers, and is non-strippable. I would also bet it would stain the paper big time. You need a starch based paste. The wheat clay mix will serve you right, the wheat to wet out the substrate, the clay for tack. I assume a designer spec'ed the paper for the bathroom? Just keep your mouth quiet and roll with the job. I never make waves when working for a designer. Good luck.

Oh, and the closest thing available in the US that is comparable to Britain's tub pastes is Romans 838.

[rex]

I bought a gallon of the Roman( pro-543)polymer based adhesive today and opened it to look at it. It was white like Elmers glue and reminded me of border adhesive. I checked the Roman website and found out that it IS the same thing that they sell for border adhesive! Glad I saw your last post and looked at the adhesive for myself, because like you mentioned, that stuff is definitely NOT strippable. Nowhere on the label does it say "strippable" adhesive. My question is for the Jane Churchill company.................why would they recommend an adhesive like this? Is it possible they want you to use it so their wallpaper never comes loose and claims are made against them?     Like you said, and after I looked at the adhesive in the can, I would never use that stuff for wallpaper.  My decision for adhesive is to use the Roman 880.  We have been using it for years diluted for pre- pasted paper backed vinyls, and all types of custom printed wallpapers. It is a premium clear that can be used for anything from lightweight to heavyweight wallcoverings.  Next time I get a "decorator import" like this Im just gonna follow my intuition and use what has always has worked well for me. Tomorrow we hang the paper liner, and probably Friday hang the wallcovering.  BTW would you size the liner with anything? Clear wall prep? I used Guardz on the bare drywall, followed by Sheildz. Gonna put the liner on top of the Sheildz with the  Roman 880.   Just curious what you would do on top of the  liner.

[BrushJockey]

Rex- I'm curious why you put Sheildz over the Gardz.  I think the Gardz by itself is just about the best paper primer possible, unless you need some pigment.  I have added 123 to gardz for that, but feel it should have a bit more drying time before hanging.

[Hangman]

I would use clay base paste on the liner, 774 strippable works well. It will bite into the material better than 880 and it will dry faster. Let it dry overnight, then I would prime the liner with shieldz...........

[rex]

Never tried using Gardz as a wallcovering primer. I used it here to seal the new drywall & jointcompound. Maybe the Sheildz on top was overkill, but I always try to go the extra mile and be sure that the drywall is sealed extremely well before hanging over it.   I have been using Sheildz for years as my primary wallcovering primer/sealer , but maybe ill have to try Gardz in the future.

[BrushJockey]

Hangman- here's another question-
 I have not used a liner for papers that even request it thinking that it was to make an even wall. Instead I skim the wall smooth.
 Now Prowall here and others say that the liner is more to wick away the moisture from the paste.
 If you prime the liner, what is different then with  that than a primed smooth wall?

[ProWallGuy]

I've never 'primed' a liner before, but I have sized them. I would think using a primer like Sheildz or Gardz would kill the basic properties of the liner. I do usually size it with a watered down version of the paste. This will aid adhesion and even out the porosity of the liner.

[chrisn]

I've never 'primed' a liner before, but I have sized them. I would think using a primer like Sheildz or Gardz would kill the basic properties of the liner. I do usually size it with a watered down version of the paste. This will aid adhesion and even out the porosity of the liner.

What he said.

 My decision for adhesive is to use the Roman 880. 

I would also take his advise and use this

For pulp, I've used a 80% wheat - 20% 111 mix.

pro has given you all the proper advise you need, now you can either accept that or do it you're way and hope

[Hangman]

I've never 'primed' a liner before, but I have sized them. I would think using a primer like Sheildz or Gardz would kill the basic properties of the liner.

I've often wondered if the UK terminology of liner refers more to blankstock (which I have little experience with) rather than the synthetic liners (which I have more experience with). The thicker synthetic liners I have worked with really soak up the paste and even with a coat of shieldz I've found them to have a porous nature. I can also use a thinner coat of paste over the shieldz. If the paper is likely to stain from the paste then sizing may be a better technique. It sounds like ProWall has more experience with this type of material than me.  Brush- I agree that a skimmed and primed wall is a more perfect suface to hang over.  I have hung UK products with similar instructions (i.e. recommending liner) over smooth primed walls with good results. That's not a recommendation to forgo the liner, just a personal observation.

[ProWallGuy]

I really don't have a ton of experience on the pulps either, but just trying to relay my experience with them, and advice from others when I do them too.

When I say liner, usually mean blankstock. The other kind I always refer to it as bridging liner. The thick non-woven stuff is one of them that I will prime with Gardz if needed. I'm using htis stuff to smooth out the hanging surface, not trying to wick away moisture and creating a "soft" look for the pulp.

I personally don't like 880 for anything, so rarely ever use it. I have heard many examples of 880 staining pulps due to its oily feel, and massive open time.

[jdmccann]

Hung this stuff! The papers not ideal for a bathroom.  Would definately advise liner and would also suggest a clear, matt varnish to protect the paper once hung.  Adhesive wise I have used two pastes with this paper without any problems with either.  The first is a starch based paste we have called Solvite.  Has added fungicides.  We add PVA to the water and give it a good stir before mixing in the Solvite.  This just gives it more tooth.  The other stuff I used (as it was delivered with the paper) can be found here... http://www.trade1st.co.uk/productdetail/Wallpaper-Adhesives/222.aspx.  To be honest I could tell no difference between this and our own mix of the starch based Solvite and PVA.  Not sure if you have the Solvite product over there...  will get on google and find a link to it so you may recognise your equivalent...