Many painting questions..

[kevinz]

We are getting ready for a whole house remodel on the house we just moved in to. Every room will be painted and I would like to learn to do everything the correct way. I have done a lot of painting in the past but never really took the time to learn if I was doing it right. Kind of just get paint, roll it on, done.

First question is on prep, some of the drywall in this house isn't looking so great. Looks like some areas were painted with a roller with too thick of a nap and isn't so smooth, lot of dings, etc. What should I do to get the walls perfect again? Start sanding them as is, or should I leave it and skim coat the whole wall with compound.. Then prime and paint?

Have a question on paint as well.. I would like to get as nice of a finish as possible. I was recommended using a Benjamin Moore alkyd enamel. Any comments on which exact one? If I don't mind using oil over water based is there any reason not to? I am just looking for the best results. I think I read when you apply the first coat of oil on the walls over the primer to thin it just a little bit as well?

Also what is the best brand I should look at for rollers and roller covers.. as well as brushes?  All the ones we have are pretty old and I think since we are ding the whole house it would be a good idea to spring the extra for all top of the line stuff.


Sorry for the string of questions, but this is the only place I have seen knowledgeable people actually helping people out.

Thank you for your time, really appreciate it
Kevin

[rmichael]

Hi kevinz,
I would suggest that you NOT use alkyd (oil based) paint on the walls. You can get a great finish in the sheen of your choice with an Acrylic latex wall paint. Alkyd paints are still used (by some painting pros) on windows doors and woodwork. However, Acrylic latex enamel trim paints have come a long way in the past few years in terms of "flow out" and uniformity of the finish. You might consider Ben Moore's top of the line Acrylic latex enamel for the windows, doors and trimwork.
I suggest that you prime all of the windows, doors, and woodwork regardless of which paint you choose.

The roller nap marks on the walls are almost impossible to sand out. The best bet is to skim out the walls with drywall compound. Prime the walls with an acrylic primer/sealer BEFORE you apply the skim coat and re-prime the skim coat after you have feather sanded it.
 
A 2 1/2  or 3 inch thin stock nylon/polyester brush works great to cut in wall and ceilings, it can also be used for the woodwork if you decide on acrylic latex trim paint.
We use Purdy brushes and roller covers.

Should you decide on alkyd ( oil based) paint for your woodwork use a 2 1/2  or 3 inch white china bristle brush. Wooster makes some good ones.

If you are going to use a wall paint with a satin or semi-gloss sheen (shine) use a 1/4 inch nap roller cover. For an eggshell, velvet or flat sheen use a 3/8 or 1/2 inch nap.
Here are some related links to our site
www.painterforum.com/patch.html
www.painterforum.com/tools.html
www.painterforum.com/wall.html

Good luck and keep us posted
rmichael pro painter

[kevinz]

Do you mind telling me why you don't recommend alkyd (oil based) paint on the walls? I am open to Acrylic latex but am just curious as to the reason you say to avoid the oil.

Thanks for your time and your very fast reply..

[rmichael]

Kevinz,

With the advent of drywall the professional standard became latex for walls and ceilings and alkyd for woodwork. Solvent fumes over such large areas was one reason, "yellowing" was another. Also drywall is not the best substrate for oil based finishes.
Acrylic latex enamels are now rapidly replacing alkyd for painting woodwork trim. Ease of use, water clean up, non yellowing, the lack of solvent fumes and ever increasing EPA regulations are pushing solvent based paints off the shelves.
I agree that alkyds can offer a very smooth hard finish and can be a great choice for windows, doors, and woodwork but you must keep in mind that over time and in the absense of light alkyds will "yellow". White alkyds can "yellow" five or six shades darker than the original color.
Acrylics offer a non yellowing hard finish (once it has cured) in just about any sheen.
When you add up the "pros" and "cons" Acrylic latex is the way to go....at least for the walls and ceilings.

Keep us posted,

rmichael pro painter