Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Hi everyone, I have been searching for a painter forum for ages, so glad I found this one, well, here we go, My name is Marty, I am a Painter and Decorator in Dublin, Ireland, Before all this new tech stuff came in, I was advertising in the newspaper and just getting small job, It is amazing what the power of a website and social media can do for your business, I'm all new to this kind of stuff so I would appreciate any tips from all you Painters out there or tech guys that could help my website http://irelandpainters.com
2
Hello! I'm not sure if this is the right place for this question, but my husband had some of his friends spray paint a mural in our baby's room (due 9/4.) It's super cool and we love it, but I didn't even think about the chemicals/safety until it was complete. I'm looking for advice on how to make it as safe as possible. It was finished three days ago, but it's still pretty stinky. We've had the window open, and I have an air purifier in there that filters out VOCs. I read somewhere that heating the room can make the paint off-gas more quickly, so I'm trying that with a space heater--doing several hours of heating the closed up room and then opening it all back up and using fans to ventilate. A friend recommended some kind of sealant, but I've heard mixed things about how effective this would be in creating a more chemical free space. We aren't living in the house yet, but the idea that these fumes might never go away is stressing me out. The artists did such an amazing job though, and I can't imagine taking it down or covering it up. I'd appreciate any advice. Thank you!
3
Home Owner's DIY (General painting) Forum / Window sill peeling from water
« Last post by notapainter on July 21, 2017, 04:11:40 PM »
One second-floor wooden window sill butts against the first-floor roof.  Because of this, snow and water often sit on the window sill.  Not only does the paint peel here, but the wood shows many small cracks from expansion/contraction.  The cracks are 1" to 4" long, and as wide as 1/32".  My previous "paint" was Sherwin Williams Woodscapes solid stain.  Most of the house is still in good shape,  but this window sill needs attention.  Although the window sill is 30 years old, the wood is surprisingly still sound, other than the cracks.  It isn't soft or decaying.

I called Sherwin Williams, Benjamin Moore, and Valspar and asked for advice.  SW and BM said that there's nothing that will work well in this situation - good bye.  Valspar said use a good combination paint/primer and you'll be fine.  Neither left me feeling good with their responses.

1) How can I effectively fill the cracks?  Putty?  Caulk?  Epoxy?
2) What would be an effective treatment (sealer? primer? paint?) for this situation?

Is there a sheet vinyl product that can be glued or nailed over wood to protect it instead of paint?  What about a marine paint or a two-part paint? 

What would you do?

Thank you for your help.
4
Home Owner's DIY (General painting) Forum / Re: Peeling paint.
« Last post by MarkSindone on July 21, 2017, 02:15:22 AM »
You might want to look at why the paint is peeling off.  The guy might not have let the paint settle properly, or perhaps it was just a really damp day out or in the kitchen. Best solution is to strip off as much as you can and. Or pay the price of another painter and the corresponding tins of paint if you can't find the old ones in storage.
5
Whether you satisfy someone on-line, in a social group, or start chatting with them at the bus stop, it's essential to usually maintain safety in mind. Even when you've been launched by buddies, you ought to be cautious about revealing individual details as well rapidly.
 
Setting up a virtual phone network in your company tends to make internal fax sending a breeze. It also connects co-employees, departments, as nicely as remote branch workplaces more proficiently. This enables you to coordinate in the exact same method by assigning get virtual sms number to pick workers, departments, and distant branches regardless of location.
 
Automated System. A consumer phone calls in and hears greetings from an automatic receptionist welcoming them and gives them an choice to choose what department they want to be connected.
 
To call from a foreign country to the United States, dial the state's AT&T USADirect accessibility number, and subsequent the prompts, dial the free admission number of the contacting card. You'll be proposed to select one of the languages and then enter your personal identification quantity. Dial 1, location code and the quantity you demand following the PIN is entered. There're also some nations where prepaid calling is not permitted. Call consumer services to find out.
 
What steps has the provider taken to ensure you don't encounter any interruptions in the quality of your services? You don't have to know a lot of specialized jargon or understand how the back finish of your digital telephone services functions to discover out if a supplier is correct for you. All you need to know is whether or not they have taken the steps to make sure your services stable. A provider that is severe about supplying high quality and reliable service will have taken the actions to make sure there are redundant methods and back ups just in case they have problems with their servers and gear.
 
From that point copy the file more than to your Kindle by way of USB, use ES File Explorer to launch the installer (I previously knew how to use ES File Explorer in YouWave, but I apologize, I completely forgot exactly where it was stored).
 
 
http://geocachingchile.cl/foro/index.php?action=profile;u=199330
6
Home Owner's DIY (General painting) Forum / Paint blistering in bathroom
« Last post by Dbas on July 17, 2017, 12:55:48 PM »
Hi all, I wondered whether anyone could help?

Our bathroom was redone 3 months ago. Recently, the paint on one wall started blistering. This wall was already painted when we moved in, and so when bathroom was redone,  a coat of primer was put on top of the old paint, and a few days later, 2 coats of paint.

The new paint is now reacting with the old paint underneath. Would the solution be would be to pva coat, replaster and then repaint?

Any advice gratefully received.
Thanks in advance.
7
Home Owner's DIY (General painting) Forum / Peeling/Bubbling Paint
« Last post by Devils1419 on July 17, 2017, 10:20:28 AM »
Good morning,
I recently purchased a house and am in the process of painting before I move in. I have run into a couple of issues and am open to any suggestions or advice that anyone has. Had no problems in the kitchen, then moved on to the downstairs bedrooms. Started painting the ceiling and it started to bubble, the new paint wouldn't stick. Long story short, had the same issues with the walls. I attempted to apply primer to the walls, but that wouldn't stick/penetrate either. Ended up having to scrape and peel the old paint off the entire room. It appears that the room was re done at some point, because there was only the one coat of paint on what looks like fairly new sheetrock. I have a feeling i will run into the same problem in the other bedroom and am looking for any help in regards to what i can do, if anything, to avoid having to strip the old paint off the walls. Is there a special type of primer that will penetrate the paint? Also, the only place where the old paint didn't peel off in fairly large pieces was where the drywall joints/seams were. It seemed to stick fairly well in those areas and is very difficult to chip off with a putty knife. Thank you in advance for any and all help! 
8
Hi All,
I live in the Pacific NW on an island in Puget Sound. We get a lot of rain, and my place has cedar shingle siding. Overall, the shingles are in good shape, I'm cleaning them with sodium percarbonate and then neutralizing them with oxalic acid. The shingles still show some uneven weathering, but I'm okay with that look. I need to treat them before the Fall rains arrive. Any recommendations on products? I'm leaning towards an acrylic semi-transparent stain. (I've heard the semi-transparent has at least some pigment bodies in it that will improve adhesion and durability over the clear stains.) I am not planning on priming, and I'm assuming there aren't primers that would still allow the semi-transparent stain to show much of the wood's character.

I've also heard that it would be difficult for an amateur like me to spraying on and get an even application. However, spraying and then backbrushing seems a lot easier than brushing and backbrushing. Any thoughts? And what type of brush is used for this kind of outdoor application? I'm assuming there must be larger and longer-handled brushes available?

Thanks for your thoughts!
9
Home Owner's DIY (General painting) Forum / Re: Day 11 of Painting Mess
« Last post by chrisn on July 13, 2017, 02:58:54 AM »
With out seeing it, I don't know. I DO know there is NO primer in ANY can of paint. Was the wall properly prepped,(ie,sanded?) I would take Ben Moore's advise and apply a proper primer and a couple coats of their paint(it will NOT cover in one coat, no matter what they say.

PS< I would be happy to paper it for you.
10
Home Owner's DIY (General painting) Forum / Day 11 of Painting Mess
« Last post by TooManyColors on July 11, 2017, 04:57:57 PM »
Hi all.
For some reason I trusted the folks at the Sherwin Williams store and now I have a real mess on my hands.
I painted most of my house with Benjamin Moore and that was many years ago. But a friend has been using SW to flip houses and there was a color I liked so .....
I bought Emerald flat in Naval. Yes, one of the darkest colors there is.
Am painting over a medium blue, approx. 11' x 12' bedroom that had eggshell/satin paint. I had a professional prep the walls as they were in rough shape.
SW told me I would need just one gallon of Emerald because the paint is that good and has a built-in primer.
Have to laugh - I know better, I guess I just really wanted to believe. Like Dorothy and the Wizard of Oz.
I knew something was really wrong when I started cutting into a corner by the door that is too small for a roller. Used a Purdy medium stiff brush - that SW sold me - and the paint just would not stick. I had to go over it so many times it was a hot mess. Cut in one wall, rolled it out. Repeated 4 times.
There were entire places where the paint didn't even stick.
I called the store. They said it must be me. I called the 800#. Again, my fault.
Went back and they gave me another gallon. Explained that the first guy didn't know and I would need 2 coats because the color is so dark. This one more coat would definitely do it. The guy there said load up a lot of paint on the brush - it needs a lot of paint. (Yes, because it doesn't stick!)
Did a second coat. Same problem. I even took a video of me trying to apply the paint.
Called the 800#. Told to put just a little on the brush. I had too much paint.
Went back to the store. Told I didn't have enough paint.
Then I did what I should have done two weeks ago. I googled Emerald paint reviews.
It's not me, it's the paint!
SW says they want to make it right and frankly, I don't know what to do next.
Do I use another coat of Emerald and keep applying it until it eventually covers?
Do I use another SW product? If so, which one?
Do I go to another line? The BM store didn't know what to tell me other than do one coat of primer and then one coat of their paint. They say their paint covers in one coat. (I'm not falling for that again!!!)
Have been on the sofa for over a week and my old body is taking a beating. After I get a color on the wall I'll have to tape it off and fix the ceiling and trim where my efforts of forcing the navy paint on the wall spread to every white surface.
Any and all suggestions are welcome. Including getting someone to wallpaper the darned room and be done with it!
Thank you so much!!!
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10