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I should think the lacquer that you use depends on the base of your kitchen cabinets, no? What material / wood are you using and are you very particular about how the lacquer will stain the material? I'm sure you can do a quick search of the brands and see samples of how the paints will show up on different surfaces...
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I second the comment about searching for what your competitors offer and seeing how else you can help your customers by offering those services too. You could also try hooking up with other complementary businesses so that you can offer them value-added connections when your customers need other things done in their building. It'll also help to build up your network if these partners refer customers back to you in turn!
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here is one
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I generally don't like the smell of turpentine and other thinners, but hey, a painter has to keep in storage what he needs to get his tools clean right? Will have to take a look into the mineral sort to see if the smells are any different - although I'm not really very much hopeful. Sorry to jump the thread, but if anyone knows of any good brands to recommend, I'm all ears! TIA!
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I should think that the colour you paint your bedroom would depend on the person that's going to be using the last room right. You wouldn't want to paint the last room a colour that the person wouldn't be able to stand. It would also depend a lot on what colour and design the furniture that's going in the room are going to be too! Pictures would help!
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Agualente by ML Campbell. This is the product we use on cabinets. No need for an explosion proof spray booth. We apply with a Fuji HVLP system. https://www.mlcampbell.com/products/?filter_pa_vehicle%5B%5D=water-borne
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Professional Painters and associated Trades Forum / Re: Latex v Oil
« Last post by perspicuous on March 31, 2017, 09:06:42 AM »
My brother recommended I might like this website. He was entirely right. This post actually made my day. You can not imagine just how much time I had spent for this info! Thanks!
http://lan-utan-uc-se.com/
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Painter's Tales Short & Tall / spam
« Last post by chrisn on March 29, 2017, 01:56:19 AM »
Thanks to whom ever FINALLY cleaned up the place. ;D
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I stopped in the BM store today and the guy tried to sell me DuraLaq. I've heard about UltraLaq but he told me most cabinet makers use DuraLaq. Can someone explain to me the difference?
Also, looking for a recommendation for a Pre-Cat Lacquer (or post Cat) that you guys like. I would like them to tint it to a BM color though...if that is possible?
Thanks guys
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Hi Folks

I am pricing a job to paint interior stained wooden doors and frames (9), baseboard,  mantelpieces etc. The wooden doors are panel and so I am thinking that spraying is going to be the most efficient approach. I do not have any knowledge of the stain system that has been used previously, whether it is a stain/varnish or other shellac built up over years. So I should probably assume the worst, unless I could ask the owner if I can do a test (brush) prior to submitting my proposal.

I live in New Zealand so some products you U.S. based painters use aren't available here. What is available here (apart from local brands which you guys wouldn't be familiar with) is the Zinsser range.

My question is which primer (assume I need adhesion and stain blocker) should I apply, by which means (hvlp/airless are my options) and do I thin them.

I understand that spraying BIN could be hazardous from a health and safety point of view and not achievable using an HVLP, though this would probably be the best Zinsser product. Coverstain would be my next guess though this would probably be need to be thinned to spray. Would this work? The instructions say don't thin, but would thinning with Penetrol be ok? Bullseye would be my last choice as waterbased and could bleed stains later which I definitely don't want. Would I need to apply one or two primers? Finishing coats will be waterborne enamel.

Thanks for any comments/advice

Dave
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