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Professional Painters and associated Trades Forum / Painting Doors
« Last post by spenloo on January 27, 2017, 04:19:42 PM »
I am looking for a good solution to standing doors for spraying. Up to this point I have just been using scrap and door shims at job sites.

What are some good solutions.

I found these guys, has anyone tried them?

https://www.steadydoor.com/
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now, that's very helpful, thanks a lot :o
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Home Owner's DIY (General painting) Forum / Re: City Skyline!
« Last post by akronpainters on January 21, 2017, 08:50:03 PM »
Really curious....how did this turn out for you?




http://www.akronareapainters.com
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I rent and have an incredibly dingy, disgusting linoleum floor in my bathroom. While I'd love to ask my landlord to replace it, I'm getting amazing rent and really don't want to push my luck.

So I bought a polypropelene (olefin) indoor/outdoor rug on sale, that was advertised as one that could be "hosed off." It looks great in the bathroom, but it isn't entirely flat weave. I'm now reading that olefin rugs get dingy quickly and actually require more upkeep than nylon rugs. Indoor/outdoor?

Now I'm kind of regretting not either installing peel/stick tile or making a floorcloth, because although it is low-pile, it does have a nap. I have a litterbox in the room, and would like to minimize vacuuming--if there is any way to seal it to make it something I can sweep/mop, that'd be great.

Perhaps even more importantly, I need to totally waterproof it. I have an "accident-prone" dog. While I'm sure that it is easier to clean than, say, a wool shag, it doesn't appear to be totally resistant to stains and water, as I would've thought from the "indoor/outdoor" moniker.

I've been looking through DIY tutorials on floorcloths/decoratively painting cheap rugs/etc. and have found a few different things:

*Amazingly, none of the posts describing painting "utility rugs" etc. (the closest to this case) have addressed the issue of sealing the rug. But apparently putting wall paint on a rug is fine; it will just make it stiffer (which is fine by me, so long as it still lays flat).

*The posts on making floorcloths from canvas usually say to seal with three coats of water-based polyurethane (or acrylic polyurethane).

*There are other products like a standard scotchgarding or one specifically for carpet, but these would not seal the nap or, I fear, truly waterproof the rug.

*There are heavy-duty protectants for tarps and even boat sails, etc., and silicone products, etc. If polyurethane wouldn't work, I'm more than game if they won't totally kill the rug.

I want to make this as tough as possible, without affecting the color drastically (a little darker or brighter is fine, but no spotting, etc.); I don't care whether it is rigid (if it lies flat and doesn't crack or anything). As I said above, a floorcloth made from linoleum would've probably been the best way to go (and what I'll do if I can't really fix this).

I sunk about $50 in the rug (impulse buy! was 75% off and is pretty gorgeous), so I'd like to do this if possible, but I also don't want to spend more than $20 or so on a product if possible.

Does anyone have any suggestions? If the polyurethane sealant wouldn't crack underfoot or ruin the dye, I'd be totally in. And if so, is a water-based one sufficient to truly waterproof it? I'll probably be doing this in my apartment, and want to avoid fumes as much as possible.

Thank you very much. I'm in over my head and desperately need the advice of people in the know.  ???
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Home Owner's DIY (General painting) Forum / Need help picking bedroom paint color
« Last post by littleindian on January 20, 2017, 04:18:32 PM »
I have a bedroom painted medium-dark brown (green carpet) and another painted medium-dark blue (light blue carpet). They both have off-white trim. I'm looking for suggestions for the third bedroom. It's currently painted a very light green and has a beige carpet.
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Home Owner's DIY (General painting) Forum / Re: Mineral spirt vs mineral terpentine
« Last post by chrisn on January 13, 2017, 06:00:27 PM »
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk%3AMineral_spirits

You can use either for painting purposes. I like the turpentine because it smells good( at least the real kind, I don't know what the mineral kind is). The last one you can just pitch out, it is worthless.
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Home Owner's DIY (General painting) Forum / Mineral spirt vs mineral terpentine
« Last post by ikehgl on January 13, 2017, 12:04:40 PM »
Hi,
I bought an oil-based paint and the cleaning directions called for the use of mineral spirt.
In the store they sold me mineral terpentine.
I already had at home a cleaner labeled synthetic spirt, which did a lousy job cleaning the brush. It mostly smeared the paint rather than remove it.
Afterwards, using mineral terpentine did a great job at cleaning the brush.
My question is: What is the difference between the three products and what is each one good for.

Thanks
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It's been awhile since I visited the site. I recall there being a sticky about how to properly lay paint  using a  roller. Pretty sure there were instructions and pictures for starting at bottom of wall, making a W, backroll? Anyone know what I'm talking about and can you help me find the article? If you know of good instructions for cutting-in too i'd greatly appreciate them too.
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Professional Painters and associated Trades Forum / Re: Professional Painter
« Last post by chrisn on December 30, 2016, 06:13:37 PM »
that's why I am a MEGA god ;D
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Professional Painters and associated Trades Forum / Re: Paint Sagging
« Last post by mymint87 on December 30, 2016, 12:12:37 PM »
We been having issues with paint sagging in our new house and have read everything we can to try to fix the issue. We've prepared the walls by cleaning with TSP (rinsing the walls of the TSP as well) and light sanding. We are currently painting primer on the wall (doing 1 coat of primer due to the dark color of the existing paint) at 52% humidity and at 72 degrees. Just to make sure the humidity is perfect, we have had a dehumidifier working in the room for the past few days keeping the humidity at 50% during the entire time. Some but not a lot of water has come out of the air. We have let the previous coat dry for a few days now.

Walls were previously painted about 5 years ago with Dutch Boy latex paint. We are painting with a Kilz 2 latex primer and we are using good Purdy brushes and a 3/8" ply professional quality roller. We are painting thin, even coats and sanding between coats. Would there be anything else causing paint sagging that we have not already tried to fix? We had some similar issues in other areas of the house using Sherwin Williams Pro Classic on the trim, but this issue is happening both on the trim and the walls. We had professionals come in to finish some painting in these areas and they had similar issues, but obviously made it look better than we could as diyers.

We have both painted successfully in the past doing less to the walls than we have done for this project so don't know what else to do.
welcome....too much moisture and when you add wet paint onto large surface areas it will raise the room temp and humidity, how much it raises will depend on the climate.....sounds like you have some control over heat and humidity, so there is your answer...dehumidify more, and raise temp....good luck
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