Author Topic: Painting cinder block with DryLok  (Read 31398 times)

Offline PaintTN

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Painting cinder block with DryLok
« on: June 30, 2006, 09:43:59 PM »
I am a novice painter, and just messed up a bid!  (Guess that's how we learn!)  I was asked to do 3 walls in a basement with UGL DryLok.  Eyeballing it, I figured 3 gallons for 2 coats...and approximately 6 hours + cleanup.  

I just used 2 gallons and only completed 1 coat of 1 wall (and it took 3 hours)!  I am following the instructions on the paint can - apply 1st coat with brush, and then feel free to roll the 2nd coat.  

Does anyone have any shortcut tips for working with cinder block and UGL DryLok?  I realize I'll be spending 2xs planned on supplies - but what about recouping some time on this project and getting on to the next one?!  

Your help is appreciated and keep up the good work on this forum!

Offline Sandycane

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Re:Painting cinder block with DryLok
« Reply #1 on: July 01, 2006, 09:40:38 AM »
Hi PaintTN,
I made the same mistake 2 years ago when asked to paint the small block house that our H2-A workers live in at the nursery I work for.
The inside of the house was terribly mildewed so, we scrubbed down with bleach and used a good quality semi-gloss oil for that and SW suggested the UGL for the exterior.
I never used it before and estimated the same way you did- wrong!
The stuff is so thick instead of one gal per side, it took 2 & 1/2. My boss was paying for the paint so that was no problem, just took longer than expected (I'm the office manager and was getting paid by the hour anyway).
I used a very thick-napped roller for the first and only coat.
Like I said, this was two years ago and the house still looks great- not a bit of mold or mildew inside or out.
That UGL STINKS  :o- hope you have plenty of good ventilation.

Offline rmichael

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Re:Painting cinder block with DryLok
« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2006, 03:16:04 PM »
Hi PaintTN,
It has been my experience that you never get the spred rate listed on the can with any paint. DryLok is one of those products with a labeled rate that is so far off and misleading that it is simply false advertisement! OK.. enough of that rant... :)  
Just write it off as a learning experience, I guarantee that you will make it up on the next one, all of us have taken a real beating from a job or two, just learn from it, get it done and move on     ;)

Best of Luck
rmichael  pro painter
Pro Painter 30 years ~ Down East Coastal NC

"Hell Son, It's always been about the work."

Offline PaintTN

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Re:Painting cinder block with DryLok
« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2006, 09:26:29 PM »
Thanks for the encouragement!  I put my head down and got it knocked out today.  (Instead of painting one-wall-at-a-time, I flet like I was painting "one-brick-at-a-time!")  

On to the next one...  ;D

Offline theopas7

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Re:Painting cinder block with DryLok
« Reply #4 on: July 06, 2006, 09:29:24 PM »
quick tip for first coat of drylok.Purchase a 1.25"inch roller napx 9" for 9" roller handle.Also a 9" paint grid for 5 gal. pail.
Dump 3 gals. of drylok in the 5.Load up the roller with drylok
roll outone roller width with that load.Apply4-5 loads then brush that thick stuff in with a 4"synthetic brush.Repeat
process until 1st. coat complete..

Offline Basement Sealerman

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Re: Painting cinder block with DryLok
« Reply #5 on: December 22, 2010, 02:39:04 PM »
For those who are looking for a better waterproofing product to paint basement walls including cinder block, masonry block, poured concrete and stone foundation walls, Hydro-Seal 75 is my go to coating.
Hydro-Seal 75 is a water based epoxy coating that is mixed at a simple 1 to 1 ratio prior to application with paint rollers, brushes or airless sprayers.
I roll and brush my basement applications except for stone and mortar foundations which are great for spraying.

I clean the walls first by washing with TSP and then rinsing with water. A 2 coat application follows at a rate of about 100 to 150 square feet per gallon per coat.

Hydro-Seal 75 is virtually odorless making it great for tight applications in basements in the winter when keeping the heat in is important.  I never could stand the smell of the different materials loaded with solvents sold in Home Depot.

For patching I just add Sand Mix or even hydraulic cement to my Hydro-Seal 75 to create a waterproof patching more that is not brittle, and then I apply Hydro-seal 75 over my patching and it all dries together.

Hydro-Seal 75 and Hydro-Seal Mortar work great on the floor and floor perimeter.  I force the mortar into the joint where floor and wall meet with the back of a spoon and always come out 1 ro 2 feet on the floor with the Hydro-Seal 75 eliminating seepage at this spot.

Hydro-Seal 75 is tested to withstand 40 PSI which is way up there in water resistance and is manufactured in Rhode Island.  The 1 gallon kits are easy to work with. Just mix the entire contents of each can together, stir for a few minutes and you are ready to paint. 
One tip on making the mortar for patching, just pour a small amount of mixed Hydro-Seal 75 off in a different container and leave it while you run out your mixed gallon. Then go back and make your mortar. This way you don't waste a whole bunch of material by making too much mortar with a whole mixed gallon.

Hydro-Seal 75 is not cheap, but no material seals up a foundation better in my opinion, or is easier or more pleasant to work with. Great for DIY home owners, maintainence men, handymen and waterproofing contractors. Be sure to ask for the Hydro-Seal 75 with the Anti Mold additive and I prefer to use the Gray instead of the White which shows the dirt on my floor applications.